Lots of menswear’s most iconic outerwear types have their roots within the army. The pea coat isn’t any exception. Born aboard the naval vessels of the 1800s, this heavy woollen jacket was a creation of the Dutch, later popularised by the British Royal Navy the place it turned uniform for petty officers. From there it travelled throughout the Atlantic and was adopted by the US Navy too.
Every nation had its personal slight variation on the type, however the fundamental silhouette remained the identical throughout all three. The vital factor was that it was powerful, thick and sturdy, able to standing as much as the notoriously wild and unpredictable climate out at sea.
The army has since changed the pea coat with extra rugged and weatherproof fashionable options, nevertheless it lives on in civilian use. See, not solely does this kind of outerwear provide wonderful insulation and safety from the worst of the climate, it additionally seems fairly sharp. In consequence, it’s develop into one thing of a staple piece within the menswear world, and one thing it is best to undoubtedly take into account including to your outerwear choice.
What Is A Pea Coat?
So, what precisely is a pea coat? There are many totally different variations of this type of outerwear, and plenty of designers have put their stamp on it through the years. Nonetheless, with the intention to paint probably the most correct image, we’ll concentrate on the traditional army garment that impressed all of the others.
Historically, it’s a heavy wool coat with a double-breasted entrance and a straight physique. It’s longer than most jackets however significantly shorter than an overcoat. It has an outsized Ulster collar, which was designed to be worn buttoned up for further climate safety when at sea, and it options six giant buttons to the entrance and two slit pockets.
The factor that actually units a pea coat aside from different wool coats is the kind of cloth. Historically it was comprised of Kersey wool, which is a twill-weave woollen fabric with a rough, heavy texture, however as we speak it’s extra generally comprised of Melton wool, which has a barely looser weave. These materials had been chosen primarily for his or her sturdiness and heat.
Shopping for Concerns
Match
The pea coat is a chunk of outerwear for chilly climate. This implies you’re in all probability going to wish to put on it with layers. With that in thoughts, you’ll wish to ensure there’s loads of room beneath for a thick knitted jumper or cardigan whereas nonetheless leaving loads of room to maneuver your arms.
It must be comfortable with out feeling restrictive, and it is best to have the ability to transfer your arms above your head with out a battle.
Cloth
Conventional pea coats are comprised of a twill mix of Melton wool. Melton or not, any first rate pea coat must be comprised of some kind of wool, or on the very least a wool mix.
It’s a winter coat that’s supposed to maintain you toasty, so there’s not a lot level making it from skinny, flimsy materials.
Value
Due to the material from which it’s made, even a fundamental high-street pea coat is more likely to value you someplace across the £100 mark. Begin procuring with designer labels and high-fashion manufacturers and that determine can simply hit over £1,000.
We’d say between £300 and £500 is what you have to be ready to spend with the intention to get a high-quality garment from a good model. Talking of respected manufacturers…
The Finest Pea Coat Manufacturers
Burberry
Burberry has an extended and storied historical past designing and making traditional army outerwear. The ditch coat is its most well-known creation, however the British model additionally affords a spread of conventional pea coats with its personal signature spin.
Count on traditional cuts, delicate hits of nova verify and a few of the steepest costs round.
Store now at Farfetch
Billy Reid
If it’s ok for 007 it’s ok for us. Daniel Craig’s Bond famously wore a Billy Reid pea coat in Skyfall, making the garment one of many British model’s best-selling gadgets.
The coat is reduce from sturdy Melton wool and handmade in Italy. It additionally options embossed leather-based beneath the collar, real horn buttons and a traditional but streamlined form that’ll guarantee it doesn’t date.
Store now at Billy Reid
Waterproof coat
Waterproof coat’s traditional outerwear has earned it legendary standing within the menswear world. It’s finest recognized for its conventional British raincoats, nevertheless it makes some distinctive pea coats too.
The model’s Dalton pea coat is a traditional instance of this army mainstay, reduce from an expensive mix of wool and cashmere for softness and heat.
Store now at Farfetch
Reiss
Should you’re going to take your hunt for a pea coat to the excessive road, your first port of name must be Reiss. The model has a variety of trendy choices at comparatively accessible costs when in comparison with the likes of Burberry.
Better of all, there are frequent gross sales, so should you’re good about it you may find yourself saving a substantial sum of money on a really good piece of outerwear.
Store now at Reiss
Percival
We’re massive followers of London’s Percival and its up to date spin on menswear’s traditional silhouettes. Take its bestselling ‘Pea Coat’ for instance. It’s comprised of thick Melton wool identical to the originals, nevertheless it forgoes the double-breasted entrance in favour of a extra fashionable and informal single-breasted design.
It’s additionally reduce barely longer within the physique than a conventional pea coat, which makes it even higher for conserving heat within the winter months.
Store now at Percival
Non-public White V.C.
Manchester’s Non-public White V.C. makes some unbelievable outerwear, focussing on traditional shapes, high-quality supplies and conventional British manufacture. The model’s signature pea coat stays true to the unique naval design, with an outsized convertible collar, double-breasted entrance and slit pockets.
It’s comprised of 100% Melton wool and stitched collectively in England.
Store now at Non-public White V.C.
Schott NYC
Schott makes its pea coat to army spec from 32 Oz Melton wool, and following the traditional naval design. It’s made within the USA and includes a straight reduce with outsized buttons and a nylon quilted lining for heat.
Store now at MR PORTER